9-11
You don’t know until you go.
That’s the old saying and it still holds true today.
September 11th, 2011, started out as a gloomy overcast day.
There hadn’t been much in the way of surf lately and the morning television shows were full of
grief and depression, so we decided to take a little walk to the beach, and bring the board,
just in case.
Before long, we noticed lines coming in. Not wind swell lines.
Long, straight lines. With no one on them.
About now, we were glad we brought the board.
It must have been a raging night in I.V., because the students were all sleeping in.
After a couple of hours of wave after wave of fun, we got out and took a few photos.
There were a few lulls, but set after set came rolling through.
You gotta love when there’s more waves than people.
This guy was shredding it, getting more rides than we could count.
And as the day wore on, it seemed to be getting better and better.
Eventually, surfers started to show up, and you could hear the surprised comments as they came upon the scene. Didn’t the Internet tell them it would be good here today?
This guy showed up with a soft top and proceeded to charge into several nice barrels.
I dunno, think he’s having any fun?
Hopefully, this is a little preview of what’s to come in the next few months….
Ian Jenkins showed up and got some nice ones before it got too crowded.
Another Goleta boy, James Hoag, was getting his share as well.
With the cool weather and the solid lines, it really felt like fall was here.
As the crowd grew and the near collisions increased, it really felt like
school was starting up also.
An empty wave…how sweet is that.
So as we walked back around the point and watched this old timer get a long empty ride, it was good to know that in these days of cell phones and web cams,
you can still get a solo session in…. Sometimes.
