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9-11

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You don’t know until you go.
That’s the old saying and it still holds true today.

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September 11th, 2011, started out as a gloomy overcast day.
There hadn’t been much in the way of surf lately and the morning television shows were full of
grief and depression, so we decided to take a little walk to the beach, and bring the board,
just in case.

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Before long, we noticed lines coming in. Not wind swell lines.
Long, straight lines. With no one on them.

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About now, we were glad we brought the board.

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It must have been a raging night in I.V., because the students were all sleeping in.
After a couple of hours of wave after wave of fun, we got out and took a few photos.

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There were a few lulls, but set after set came rolling through.
You gotta love when there’s more waves than people.

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This guy was shredding it, getting more rides than we could count.

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And as the day wore on, it seemed to be getting better and better.

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Eventually, surfers started to show up, and you could hear the surprised comments as they
came upon the scene. Didn’t the Internet tell them it would be good here today?

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This guy showed up with a soft top and proceeded to charge into several nice barrels.

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I dunno, think he’s having any fun?

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Hopefully, this is a little preview of what’s to come in the next few months….

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Ian Jenkins showed up and got some nice ones before it got too crowded.

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Another Goleta boy,  James Hoag, was getting his share as well.

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With the cool weather and the solid lines, it really felt like fall was here.

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As the crowd grew and the near collisions increased, it really felt like
school was starting up also.

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An empty wave…how sweet is that.

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So as we walked back around the point and watched this old timer get a long empty ride,
it was good to know that in these days of cell phones and web cams,
you can still get a solo session in…. Sometimes.

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