Late Autumn 2018 in Goleta.
We got a few inches of rain and the green grass started poppin’.
Amazing how beautiful a little green can make everything.
And clean green waves are pretty easy on the eyes as well.
We’ve been getting some consistent surf lately,
but it’s been a little tricky to avoid the fat crowds.
One way is to get out there early in the morning. Like dark thirty early.
It’s cold and uncomfortable, but it can occasionally be worth it.
This day, it was worth it.
The boys wasted no time taking advantage of the empty line up.
Adam Rondepierre slipped right into a green, glassy barrel.
Bobby Morris dropped into his first of many for the day.
With only his three friends in the water, Bobby had free reign.
And he got some good ones.
Trevor Scoggins was busy getting his share.
Fat, hairy closeouts.
And the boys were more than eager to drop right in for the dead end ride,
Clean, green, collapsing walls.
Stephan Rondepierre was still sore from his last session like this,
but it didn’t keep him from dropping into a few bombs.
A definite gamble…..
Maybe the reason the crowd went elsewhere.
Into the cavern of death…
Good clean fun.
Another factor that may have kept the crowds away, the locals.
This healthy sea lion did not appreciate Trevor riding his waves.
He circled continuously and showed off his sharp canines multiple times
while Trevor tried to splash him away. A tense few minutes to be sure.
He circled continuously and showed off his sharp canines multiple times
while Trevor tried to splash him away. A tense few minutes to be sure.
So Trevor relocated.
Goleta glass.
They weren’t all close outs. There were a few that held up.
That allowed Bobby some time to do what he does best.
And Adam kept finding shade.
And having a blast.
So, empty waves can still be occasionally found,
if you’re willing to get up before the sun and take a little beating.
