December 6th, 2015 and things were starting to feel like winter may be coming.
Fall hadn’t brought much in the way of waves yet and we were growing weary of the constant
warnings of the impending El Nino doom that was certainly bearing down on us.
But the beginning of December brought some welcome swell activity.
After a couple days of enjoying the surf, I snuck out early one morning to get some photos.
Bobby Morris and Trevor Scoggins told me about a great session they had the day before,
so I met up with them to hopefully reenact the events they spoke of.
Of course, it was a classic example of, “you shoulda been here yesterday”,
but there were still some fun waves to be enjoyed.
The crowd was manageable….
And there were clean walls to be had.
Even when the surf is less than expected, these guys make the most of it
and give me something fun to shoot.
Trevor Scoggins is not one to dodge any barrels.
Bobby is always happy to use a lackluster wave as a launch ramp.
Hanging out on the beach, early in the morning is one of my favorite things to do.
And taking pictures of surfing is the next best thing to actually surfing.
In fact, on fast, tricky days like this, I might prefer it to surfing…..
That’s a fat lip.
Still photos can be deceiving. They can make waves look fun and playful when in reality
they were very fast and fickle. Such was the case this morning.
Dropping into a clean and glassy little barrel might look very nonchalant,
but it’s actually a fast and furious gamble that usually pays off with a thumping.
The bigger the barrel, the bigger the thrill…..
And the bigger the thumping.
But they don’t seem to mind at all…..
So here’s to the upcoming winter. We’re ready and waiting…..