Climbing out of bed before sunrise, in the middle of winter, can be a task.
Slipping into a cold, damp wetsuit while the sun just starts to rise also can be a challenge.
But paddling out into an empty line up to get a front row seat to the greatest show on earth
can make it all worthwhile.
Especially when there’s some surf….. and an offshore breeze.
Some places are so special and unique, the size of the surf is secondary to the overall environment.
This particular morning, the surf was a little soft, so that kept the crowd down.
But the ride is just one small part of the overall experience really.
The cold sand underfoot, the first rays of warm morning sun hitting your body…
The smell of the ocean water and the soft sound of the swells peeling onto the beach.
The slight adrenaline rush from the first contact with the fifty something degree water.
A passing sea bird screams out a morning greeting.
The anticipation of the first wave, and the first head dunking….
The cool morning air rushing into your face.
And the reward of the effortless glide.
Then there’s the scenery. Gently rolling hills backed by purple mountains.
An occasional train rolling by….
If your sole focus is catching as many waves as you can…..
…and working on your “moves”…
Then you’re missing out on a whole bunch of good stuff.
The frantic searching and chasing after these little acts of nature known as waves
has gotten out of control.
Take a deep breath. Take a look around.
And take what you get.
Because it’s always gonna be way better somewhere else.
And it’s always gonna be way worse other places.
And you are here.
So enjoy it, while you can.
