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Feast

Part 2

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The swell had lingered on for a few days, but it wasn’t anything too thrilling.
That was about to change.

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One of my eager young amigos suggested a pre dawn session, how could we refuse?

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The size had increased a bit, but it was a little funky.

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Slipping into a still wet suit on a cold winter morning is always refreshing,
but the waves didn’t look too inviting.

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Regardless, greeting the dawn on a remote beach is always a beautiful way to start the day.

 

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We didn’t get any great surf shots, but it was an indicator of sorts.
We could see something was brewing….

 

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The lines were coming in and the forecast was good for the next few days.

 

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Saturday morning, January 25th, 2014.
Things had cleaned up nicely and between lulls, there was some size.

 

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We bounced around all day, and saw a slight difference in size in different places,
but one thing was a constant……crowds.

 

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Everybody had watched the monster waves hit Hawaii,
and the announcement came that Mavericks was on, so the pump was primed.
This was a swell not to be missed, and not many did.

 

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In the water or out, there was a show to be had.

 

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” What?!   You didn’t see that wave I got?…”

 

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<p”>” Campus is That Way!”

 

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” Damn, shoulda brought the stick Mable…”

 

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Yes, this is Goleta.

 

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It’s been too long since we’ve seen this here.

 

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Stoke was heavy in the air.

 

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One permanently stoked hombre paddled out with something completely different.
Simon Murdoch and his finless Rabbits Foot.

 

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A lack of fins changes the game a bit…

 

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We’ll see a lot more of this guy later…

 

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Surf royalty was in attendance in the form of one Wayne Rich, who made his way to
the top of the lineup and waited patiently for the set waves to come to him.

 

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An effective way to discourage shoulder hopping.

 

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Soul surfer CJ Solo going with the flow.

 

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These guys are usually having more fun than anybody out there.
Seymor Butts and CJ Solo.

 

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Meanwhile, back at Campus….

 

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Boards were flying.

 

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Rides were being shared.

 

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And impossible drops were being tried.

 

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Summer weather, Winter waves.
Always a tasty combo.

 

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This is one Go Pro selfie video we’d like to see.
Some serious shuckin’ and jivin’ going on here….

 

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Coming up next page will be some big boy sized Devereux,
among other things, so check back soon.
Lots more pics still to go through!

 

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