It seems so long ago. But just a few short months ago we were up to our elbows in surf.
Storm after storm pummeled Northern California, and swell after swell pummeled our beaches.
The size and conditions varied, but for several months, there was always surf.
We all knew it wouldn’t last, so we surfed
as much and as hard as humanly possible.
So many waves, so many places, so many people…..
…and so many photos.
No matter how crowded it gets, some guys can always find an empty wave and a spot to
themselves. Usually because it’s a sketchy spot, for one reason or another.
Bobby Morris is one of those guys. February he scored lots of empty waves.
And then Trevor Scoggins shows up out of nowhere.
And takes his place in the green room.
Meanwhile, back in the mainstream…
Waves kept coming…
This day, one of the heavier locals took a cruise through the line up.
The authorities caught wind of it and called everybody in with their megaphones.
Shortly thereafter, a few brave souls had a great empty lineup all to themselves….
Well worth the gamble for an epic session.
Probably don’t want to pearl right in front of the rocks on a day like this……