January 8th, 2019, the local news was focused on one thing, the Big, Dangerous, Waves.
Of course, we realize they have good intentions. They want to warn all the people that normally don’t
even acknowledge the ocean’s existence, that tomorrow the waves are gonna be a real spectacle.
So the next day, all the beaches are packed with lookie loos.
And the lineups are packed with surfers.
Now, most surfers probably would have known about the incoming swell without Phillip Mann
and his Eyewitness News Team. But having all the media coverage invites a lot of otherwise
oblivious individuals into the picture.
Nice, healthy kids lookin’ for a good time.
But maybe they don’t really have all the tools required to surf the biggest waves of the year.
Things like knowledge, experience, a real surfboard and a proper respect for Mother Ocean.
But it’s all the talk around town and all their friends are going and they wanna be cool too
and how dangerous can it really be anyways?…
So then the first responders get called out to do their job and viola!
The news team has another big story to cover.
Meanwhile, real surfers were observing conditions and making a plan
to safely enjoy the unusual surf event.
The fun thing about big days is that waves break everywhere.
Fat, dirty slabs were breaking at Goleta Beach.
Or what was formerly Goleta Beach, RIP.
Every spot looked different, depending on wind and tides, Some breaks looked inviting….
Other spots made me happy to be a photographer.
Big, cold, dirty beasts with cleanup sets that are always out too far.
This appealed to a few Goleta gentlemen that wait all year for days like this.
Days that make you look like a flea on a dog’s back.
The arrow points to Trevor Scoggins.
But also notice the outside reef breaking. That means a set’s coming….
This outside reef only pops up on special occasions.
Like when it’s real big…
Trevor and Bobby Morris are the only 2 humans on this break.
No crowds, no localism, just a strong current, high tide, rocks and a cliff.
And big waves.
Bobby Morris.
See the waves coming behind his?
High tide and rocks inside and that set outside….
Trevor Scoggins.
The session got ended a little early after Bobby dropped into this one.
His ride went smoothly..
Meaning he got out in one piece.
But he took it pretty far inside, and the remaining set waves came down on his head.
Luckily his leash string didn’t break until the last set wave,
and he was able to retrieve his board before another big set rolled in.
Bobby was a little disappointed, to say the least, but it was still a heck of a session.
Just down the way, a Goleta surf legend was enjoying a solo session.
Progressive Surfboards shaper Dave Johnson was casually enjoying the winter swell.
Dave has more experience and local wave knowledge than any Wavestorm rider at Campus Point
could ever dream of having.
And he’s more than happy to share that knowledge, all you have to do is ask.
Preferably, before you paddle out….
January 9th, 2019 was a day to remember in a month full of waves.
