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So Far. So Good

So Far, So Good

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So, if the rest of this winter is like the first two weeks of January, 2012, we are in for a treat.

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While the Hype Machine was making things crowded, there was such a string of
surf, some quiet sessions could still be had.

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Unless you went somewhere like The Queen, where the crowd is the norm and shoulder hoppers
are as common as sand fleas.

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Some folks, however, choose not to bother with the “Best Spots in the World”
and would rather focus on home sweet home.

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And rather than get all jacked up when some multi millionaire pro comes up from L.A. in his
blacked out Suburban with his entourage in tow, we get stoked when a local boy shows up on
his bike, and he rips it, hard .That’s pure stoke to us.
Ian Jenkins at his home break, doing what he lives for.

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Then there’s Bromi Krock. As local as they come.
He’s been surfing this wave for years and knows it’s ins and outs as well as anybody.

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So well, in fact, he can navigate his way through people doing weird things,
like this guy’s nifty seated duck dive.

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No problemo.

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Another Goleta local, surf legend and all around nice guy,
Johnny Shields came out this evening to catch a few.
While it appears Johnny’s telling this guy to go sit on the beach,
it’s more likely he’s telling him about a great hike he took the other day.

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And then he dropped into a sweet wave….

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The Smooth Style Master.

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This was the day before “The Biggest” day was scheduled to appear,
according to local surf expert John Palmenterri.
So there was a crowd. Lots of guys coming to surf for the first time in months.
Which is so confusing; but there’s something about the evening news that is so compelling….

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And then school got out…

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And professionals bumped appointments..

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So it got a bit dicey.

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But for the most part, it was one guy per wave……
or maybe one guy, and a duck, per wave.

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We took a lot of pictures…

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Ian Jenkins keeping one eye on the rock.

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Bromi Krock.
Check him out laughing in the opening sequence of this classic
video of a REAL big day at this spot back in the eighties.
Click Here.

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Lots of fun ones this day.

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Lip service.

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So as the day faded, expectations remained high for the next day,
because the swell was building, or so it seemed.

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Swell Friday arrived.
And the masses were in attendance to greet it.

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And this was what we found,
Granted, it was probably good some places, but everywhere we looked,
it was funky with a warble and generally lacking.

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On a side note: All these nights had amazing sunsets.

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The next day, after John Palmenterri had moved on to more important stories,
things really picked up.

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Clean lines rolled in and stayed throughout the day.

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Another day we were lucky enough to share some waves with Bobby Morris.
He always has his finger on the pulse of the swell.

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Here’s to 2012 bringing more sun and surf to our shores.

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P.S.
Here are a few shots from the week sent in by our viewers.

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David Powdrell- Carpas

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David Powdrell- Carpas
(interesting booty)

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Jason Gonzales- Campus

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Scott Arnold- Dev