Week of Waves
The second week of December, 2010.
So far a feeble winter surfwise,compared to the last one.
There’s been a lot of days like this. Flat, cold and scenic.
But this week, everything changed.
Monday morning brought an ecstatic phone call. An excited friend described corduroy lines out to
the horizon over the hoots in the background. Surf had arrived.
Similar phone calls followed.
Well, we had to work that day…..
But the next morning,Tuesday, 12-7-10, we watched the sun rise from the water. And
yes, we should have been there yesterday, but it was still pretty nice, and we surfed
Goleta Beach, which is a bit of a novelty.
Nothing epic here, but a beautiful morning with some clean little lines.
Just a few local boys, getting wet before going to work.
Next day. Wednesday, 12-8-10.
Things picked back up this day. We stopped by Campus in time for the sunset session.
Word of the swell was out and the gang was all here.
But the waves were back, and up top, the crowd wasn’t too thick.
This was arguably the best surf day of the week.
Unfortunately we got there a little late, but we did enjoy an amazing winter sunset.
There was no escaping the beauty.
Sunrise. Thursday, 12-9-10.
This was supposed to be the biggest day, but it wasn’t.
And the wind that blew all night put a funky warble on the waves.
Kevin Long was out early, enjoying the crisp morning waves.
Despite the wind bumps.
There were some good sized sets, but the conditions were not the best.
Ranch bound boat, more than likely.
That’s gonna be a long, bumpy ride.
Doug Yartz was on it.
He always gives us something good to shoot.
Then this kid wanders by with a classic under his arm.
A Randy Cone board, and an old one. This was before he developed his trademark logo
with the help of his friend Chip Foose, who is a bit of a celeb himself nowadays.
Randy Cone is now shaping up north for the Mavericks crew and one of his boards was used by
the contest winner, Twiggy Baker, a couple of years ago.
The kid never paddled out. Just as well, this board should be hanging on a wall.
Meanwhile, up the coast a bit, the swell was rolling in a little cleaner.
There goes that same boat!
Despite the hype, the crowd wasn’t too overwhelming.
This guy was shredding. Name? Don’t know.
This guy we know. Bobby Morris was at the right place at the right time, as usual,
scoring some great waves.
So there it is, The week that was.
We’ll let all the other guys try to label it, El Nino, La Nina, whatever.
When we get surf, we’ll take it. Get ready for more…
Viva Goleta.
