Central California. When you need to get away, there’s nothing better.
Unsurpassed beauty, but harsh enough to keep the masses away.
It doesn’t look it, but it was way cold.
And then add the wind chill factor.
And the wind chill was truly a factor.
As was the sheer power of the wind. Blowing wave faces wide open and overpowering
the gravitational pull on the white water.
All of which had the potential for a fun session. The water was warmer than the air.
Yes, there’s somebody in there.
A long board with a short future…
Lots of empties rolled through.
This guy was charging hard. Almost pulled this one off, just lost that right foot.
A lot were unmakeable, but still pretty to look at.
Involuntary head dip.
A big part of the equation on a day like this is pushing yourself through
the wind and into the wave, with eyes full of salt water.
But once you’re in, the fun begins.
End it all with an unbelievable sunset.
Cold and Beautiful.