Late Fall 2016.
Not a whole lotta surf, unlike last year.
Mostly just wind swells to keep the serious satisfied.
Sierra Emrick got her fair share of fun ones this morning…
The weather was glorious most of the time….
But November did bring us a little rain.
This dark Sunday afternoon in November,
I got a text from a friend with a photo of an empty barrel, its lip being blown back by offshore winds.
The message simply said, “Bring your camera”.
I dropped everything and jammed to the beach, and the photo didn’t lie.
Thick, empty barrels were firing consistently.
Vinny Leonelli, Trevor Scoggins and Bobby Morris were the only guys out.
And the boys were not afraid to take a whomping.
Bobby Morris lives for these days….
He commits to waves most guys would never drop into….
No matter how slim the odds…
Swallowed whole and pounded.
Occasionally they would be rewarded with a wave that provided an exit.
Trevor Scoggins scored this nugget,
That lip would pack a wallop.
Trevor was stoked to see light at the end of the tunnel.
Vinny Leonelli was scoring some fun ones too.
These guys grew up surfing in Goleta, and they are no strangers to the shore pound session.
A couple other guys saw the boys scoring, so they paddled out to give it a try.
But it wasn’t as easy as they made it look.
Dropping into a speeding barrel is no easy task.
But Morris makes it look effortless.
Consequences be damned.
Deep in the slot.
and deeper still.
Leonelli got intimate with some hollow barrels.
<!p>And found a way out.
Decisions have to be made quickly.
And Trevor decided this door was closing…
Vinny taking a straight drop..
….into a dead end.
Exit, stage left.
For every barrel sequence like this….
Bobby took five closeout poundings.
The wonder of surf photography. Just show the good stuff….
Vinny knows when to hit the eject button.
And sometimes he gets a little creative with it!
Scoggins on a clean one.
Vinny in the fold….
The skies grew darker, The rain was forecast to start at 4 PM and it was 3:30.
But the conditions were still ideal, and the boys were charging, so I wasn’t going anywhere…
Despite the incoming storm, clean nuggets like this kept popping up..
And Bobby slipped right into his happy place.
Trevor dropped into another subterranean tunnel as the raindrops began to fall.
Shelter from the storm….
Vinny found a thick lip to hide under.
As I decided to head out before I got too drenched,
Bobby sent me off with one of his patented Morris airs.
A perfect ending to a classic Goleta session.
Three good friends, sharing waves.
And yes, I got drenched, but it was way worth it….
Thanks for the call Trevor and
bring on the rain!